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COOK ISLANDS TRAVEL GUIDE: 15 HIDDEN GEMS IN THE SOUTH PACIFIC

Scattered over a vast expanse of the South Pacific roughly 3,000 kms north east of New Zealand and 4,725 kms south of Hawaii, the Cook Islands is still one of the world's least known and unspoiled destinations. 15 tiny Islands are “hidden” in nearly two million square kilometers of ocean, which is an area slightly bigger than Indonesia or Mexico and the world's largest multi-use marine park. ​​1,433 kms separates the most northernly island from the most southernly and each and every one is unique. Many have stunning lagoons and, by law, no building on any island is taller than the tallest palm tree…and there are plenty of those. The sand is white; if you venture to the outer islands, the only footprints in it could be yours. The usual greeting is “Kia Orana” which means may you live long. 

GETTING THERE 

The only international airport is on Rarotonga which is the largest and most visited of the Cook Islands with up to 10,000 tourists a month. The Islands are most easily reached from Auckland, New Zealand. There's also a weekly flight from Tahiti. From May there will also be a new direct flight from Honolulu and from June, a new, twice weekly non-stop flight from Sydney, Australia.

The capital island of Rarotonga 

This is home to nearly three quarters of the total population of 14,987 who live in these Islands. Avarua is the main commercial and administrative center. There are no cities anywhere and locals just call this "town". It's also the most commercialized island with accommodation ranging from five star resorts to backpacker places, but it still feels unspoiled. There are no big name stores or famous fast food outlets. Instead there are palm tree lined roads, lots of local shops, cafes and restaurants, a must visit Saturday market...and lots of friendly locals.

Muri is the main resort area with three little islets in its lagoon, one of which is the most popular spot for “weddings in paradise”. When the tide is low, you can walk across to them. There are lots of other beaches too with places to swim, snorkel and dive. Rarotonga is also the base for flights to eight of the other islands.

ISLAND HOPPING 

Many visitors spend their whole time on Rarotonga but getting to five other islands is easy, each is less than an hour's flying time away and they'll reward you with unique memories to last a lifetime. With the exception of Aitutaki, plan to stay at least one or two days because of the flight schedules.

Aitutaki 

This is the second most visited island and Air Rarotonga – the only internal airline - fly there multiple times a day. They also run day trips (every day except Sunday) which include transfers to and from your accommodation. You'll get a whirlwind tour of the island, before boarding a traditional boat for a leisurely and spectacular cruise around the crystal clear lagoon whose waters are so blue you'd swear they'd been painted that colour. ​You'll stop off at some of the stunning little motus (islets) in the lagoon, including One Foot Island where you can buy unique stamps and get your passport stamped at the post office which sets up there daily. There's also plenty of time for snorkelling and swimming among the pristine coral in what feels like a massive tropical fish tank!

Mauke

​It's called the garden of the islands and colorful plants and flowers are everywhere. It's also a very peaceful place, with a slow pace of life and very few tourists. Make sure you visit “The Divided Church” whose rainbow-colored interior was literally split in two once by a brick wall after villagers disagreed about how to decorate it. Wherever you go though, you can expect great warmth and hospitality - 'ui tupuna' as islanders call it

Atiu

The Māori name for the island translates as 'land of the birds', and there are more on Atiu than any other island in the Cooks, including some very rare species. But even if you don't know a chaffinch from a chicken, there's plenty to see and do including a visit to a bush beer 'school' and a chance to process your own coffee from the island's organic plantations. Some will tell you there are no beaches to speak of, but even though they're few and small, they are stunning. And from one you can walk in the footsteps of Captain Cook's crew

Mitiaro

​It's not quite the British Lake District or akin to the Great Lakes of the USA, but sizeable freshwater lakes are the unique feature of Mitiaro - with the largest about the half the size of the whole island. 

You can swim in crystal clear pools in limestone caves, but there's little in the way of beaches and with fewer than 50 tourists a month you'll be treated like a guest.

Mangaia

​At more than 18 million years old this is the oldest island in the Pacific and you can see evidence of that wherever you go. Rugged rocks are everywhere and walking outside the villages can be very tough on the feet. At the same time, the island is very lush. Almost anything grows there. Tourism is in its infancy and accommodation is pretty basic. 

OTHER ISLANDS

Visitors are very rare. Manihiki and Penrhyn in the far north are famous for huge and stunning lagoons where black pearls are farmed but they're five hours away by plane, a ticket will cost you dearly and it could be at least one or two weeks before there's a return flight and in some cases months. Penrhyn's lagoon is so big it takes an hour to cross from one side to the other. Flights to that island are on a charter basis only. Pukapuka is closer to Samoa than Rarotonga, has its own language and islanders live within a beautifully ordered and ancient system focused on protecting the unspoiled environment and its resources.

Four other islands – Palmerston, Suwarrow, Nassau and Rakahanga - are accessible only by sea and there are no commercial boat services. Palmerston is unique in that it's part of the Cook Islands but owned by the descendants of a 19 ^th century Englishman and his wives. Two islands – Takutea and Manuae - are deserted. Both are protected nature reserves and access is restricted.

WHEN IS THE BEST TIME TO VISIT? 

It's tempting to say anytime because daytime temperatures on Rarotonga range from 23-28C and rarely drop below 20 at night. Aitutaki is a few degrees warmer, Mitiaro furthest south is a bit cooler and on the most Northerly islands the temperatures are typically in the thirties Celsius all year round. February is the hottest month and July the coolest. August, September and October are the sunniest months and you might prefer to avoid November to April which is cyclone season, although cyclones are rare. Those are also the quietest months because New Zealanders who visit most are having their summer at home.

WHAT CAN I DO? 

If you're after everything action packed, maybe look elsewhere, but that doesn't mean there isn't plenty to fill your time. 

If you've ever fancied whale watching, late July to October offers a unique opportunity. The waters off the islands are full of whales who swim so close to shore on a 6,400 km migration that you can see them without ever leaving land. The year is filled with events, the main one of which is the two week long cultural festival and constitution celebrations in late July/early August when artists from across the 13 inhabited islands travel to Rarotonga for a colourful, noisy unforgettable competition of dancing, drumming , singing and costume. And in December, the scent and sight of flowers are everywhere on the capital island for the annual flower festival.

A visit to church is a must whether you have a faith or not. The a Capella singing will stun you. Island nights at resorts and restaurants are a chance to watch and even take part in some of the energetic dancing which is the “national sport” of the islands. Take a trip round Rarotonga on its local bus; you just need to decide whether to travel in a clockwise or anti-clockwise direction and get on or off almost anywhere! And at night, walk along a beach and marvel at a billion stars in crystal clear skies unimpeded by light pollution.

As one writer put it: ​"You create your own mixture of tropical life. White beaches. Lagoon swimming. Unsmogged skies. Moonlight on palm trees. Make up your own magic"

FACTS AND INFO 

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: As long as you're staying no more than 31 days (90 days if you're a New Zealand citizen), your valid passport is the only entry permit you need, along with proof of onward journey, the means to support yourself while on the islands and somewhere to stay

LANGUAGE: English and Cook Islands Maori are the official languages ​​and nearly all islanders can speak and write both.

​CURRENCY: New Zealand dollar. The Cook Islands also has its own distinctive notes and coins which are in circulation alongside the NZ currency, and of equal value. They're not legal tender outside the Islands but the three dollar note is one of the most popular souvenirs.

TIME ZONE: The Islands are 10 hours behind GMT. As you cross the international dateline, you lose or gain a day depending on your direction of travel.

​DRIVING: Driving licenses from Australia, Canada, the UK, Japan, New Zealand, Norway, the USA and EU member countries are now accepted in the Islands. You must be 18 or over although some hire companies say you have to be over 21. If you want to hire one of the ubiquitous scooters and are not qualified to ride one at home, you'll need to pay for a test and buy a Cook Islands driving license (another great souvenir!)

DUTY FREE: ​If you're 18 or over you're allowed to bring in 4.5 liters of beer OR 2 liters of any other alcoholic beverage including wine, spirits or liqueur. Limits on tobacco are 200 cigarettes OR 250 grams of tobacco OR 50 cigars OR a mixture of all three not exceeding 250 grams. Other goods bought duty free must not exceed a value of NZ$750

WHERE CAN I FIND OUT MORE? 

​This summary guide was created by former BBC radio and TV reporter and presenter, John Roberts who for the past 20 years has authored the most detailed and only independent guide on the internet to all 15 islands. Visit his site  here . John is also raising money for dementia charities by donating all the profits from the sale of his book about the Islands. Search Amazon for “Around the Corner from Nowhere”.